Once on the island, we stop at the town of Jelsa which is mostly remnants of 300-400 year old stone houses, except for a relatively new little cafe that has been opened by a few locals. We can tell a lot of work has gone into the place because in the early 1900s much of the island was abandoned after the vine disease phyloxera killed most of the vineyards. The island´s big wine industry really suffered and many inhabitants moved to New York. The view and drinks are wonderful, but we couldn´t help but notice the other buildings around that are still in ruins. Like many other areas of the island, Jelsa has good intentions to build up small towns like this again. Local restaurants, craft shops and residential spots are trying to renovate old buildings. More and more people from the mainland are moving offshore as an appreciation for island life and the tourism industry continue to grow. With this change, the locals can anticipate increased problems with waste management and trying to reestablish a sense of community identity, post-war and post-privatization. Another issue to keep in mind is the big-scale tourist industry trying to mesh with the small-scale lifestyle of the island. As tourist traffic picks up, it will be impossible to fit opposing lanes of traffic onto narrow roads. There have already been too many moments to count where I have looked out the bus window and straight down the edge of the island cliff. If you are considering a trip to Hvar in the future, keep the following in MasterCard moments in mind:
- A large scoop of your favorite sladoled (ice cream) flavor enjoy as you watch the sun set into the harbor: 6 kuna
- Croatia's best insect repellent so you can run carefree through the lavender fields: 45 kuna
- The smug sense of satisfaction that comes from witnessing that grossly chic primadonna totally bust it in her Dolce stilettos as you stand solid in your double-strap Chacos: Priceless.
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